The Madras Literary Society, Colonial Lending Library: Attracts Chennai Photowalkers

Chennai Photowalk wanted to schedule and cover four important monuments in a photowalk during the Madras Week 2015 celebrations i.e, 1.  Freemasons’ Hall, 14 Ethiraj Salai, Egmore, Chennai-600008; 2. Madras Literary Society (MLS) library,  DPI Complex,, College Road, Chennai, 600006; 3. ‘Doveton House’ (built in 1798), Women's Christian College, College Road, Nungambakkam, Chennai 600006; and 4.  Regional Meteorological Centre, Chennai, Old No.50, New No. 6, College Road,  Nungambakkam, ( Near Shastri Bhavan) Chennai - 600034. Obtaining permission was appearing as tedious process. To our surprise 'History and Heritage of the Cooum River' a power point presentation was arranged in MLS Library on 15th August 2015 between 3.00 and 04.30 pm by Cooum Cultural Mapping group, Chennai. Chennai Photowalk arranged Walk # 1, a photowalk in consultation with PSG to visit the 203 year old MLS Library on the same date between 2.00 and 3.00 pm.

Mr.Venkatesh Ramakrishnan and Mr.T.R. Shashwath of Cooum Cultural Mapping group were already available in the premises. The young architect Ms.Thirupurasundari Sevvel, who loves to research into traditional architecture, is on a mission to preserve and revive the aura of the past. Since she is very keen in taking part in events that offer an opportunity to celebrate the city’s heritage, she made her presence in MLS along with volunteers of her Nam Veedu Nam Oor Nam Kadhai team.

Ms.T Sundari also plays an active role in MLS Library maintenance, use promotion and conservation of Library collections. The Librarian displayed few prestigious rare monographs held in the collection. The architect was explaining the history of MLS, the library building designed and developed in accordance with Indo Saracenic architecture with Rajasthani style elements i.e, brick and lime mortar wall, Madras  roof, Cuddapah slab flooring, high ceiling with interiors, tall windows with Jharokha balconies, designer jalli, ornate cornice molding along the top of an exterior wall etc. 

Mr.Mohan Raman, Secretary MLS welcomed the gathering. Mr. Sriram Venkatakrishnan, the heritage activist,  INTACH convener for the Chennai region, The Hindu columnist (column titled Hidden Histories)  and the editor of Madras Musings newspaper addressed the gathering for about 0.15 mts. on MLS. It was followed by power point presentation by Mr.Venkatesh Ramakrishnan and T.R. Shashwath on History and Heritage of the Cooum River. The following paragraphs may give you an understanding about the MLS Library:

Madras Literary Society Library 

Address: DPI Complex,, College Road, Nungambakkam, Chennai, Tamil Nadu 600006

Phone:044 2827 9666

Founded in: 1812  - 203 year old library

History:

The British East India Company relocated its capital from Madras to Calcutta in 1772. The British East India Company encouraged their employees (i.e, military officers and civil servants) to form societies. William Jones founded the Asiatick Society of Bengal 1784, 'to  encourage enquiry into the history, civil and natural, the antiquities, arts, sciences and the literature of Asia.' It immediately became the important learned society in the British colonies. The Asiatic Society of Bombay was also founded in Bombay in the same time to promote Asian studies based in Bombay. During this period the presidencies of Calcutta, Bombay and Madras were subject to the direct control of the London Office of the East India Company. The societies played vital role in the promotion of Asian studies and served as the limb of the British Indian government. The societies not only collected books, but also documented anthropological and geological data and collected palm leaf manuscripts.

The 'Literary Society' refers to a society which desires to promote research in the chosen fields or subjects, publish newsletter and or learned periodicals and hold seminars, symposium and meetings wherein research findings can be discussed after presentation. The Literary Society of Bombay was founded 1804. The Madras Literary Society was founded in 1812. The Literary Society Libraries forming part of these Literary Societies served as the 'Clearinghouses', wherein the Societies identified, collected, collated and made access to data and information on 'literature, exploratory and scientific discoveries, experiences of the Civil, Military and Judicial officers of the respective presidencies. 

Francis Whyte Ellis (1777–1819), a British civil servant was inducted in the Indian Civil Services (at the time a division of the British East India Company) in the Madras Presidency and soon elevated to the position of Collector of Madras in 1810. He was also a member of the Member of the Madras Literary Society. He planned and founded  "the College of Fort St. George" "a major Knowledge Centre" at Madras in 1812. The purpose of establishing the College of Fort St. George was to train East India Company officials in native languages. Ellis was an erudite scholar and he developed good relations with best Indian scholars like Pattabiram Shasthri, Muthusami Pillai, Udayagiri Venkatanarayanayya, Chidambara Vaathiyaar and Syed Abdul Khadar. Ellis influenced them to train the Indian students in grammar and law. The trained Indian students were employed in College of St. George as instructors to teach the  civil service recruits arriving from England. The newly recruited civil servants of the Madras Presidency spent their first two years learning one of the South Indian languages. 

The College of Fort St. George was functioning in the campus wherein Directorate of Public Instruction (DPI) now functions in College Road. Of course the name College Road was to indicate the College of Fort St. George as its landmark. The college functioned here till 1854.

Madras Literary Society and Library complemented the 'College of Fort St.George,' 'the School of Language and Oriental Studies' in the training of the newly recruited Civil Servants of the Madras presidency. 

The Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain and Ireland, commonly known as the Royal Asiatic Society (RAS) was established in London in 1824 by a group of notable scholars and colonial administrators. It was intended to be the British counterpart to the Asiatic Society of Calcutta, which had been founded in 1784, by the noted Sanskrit scholar and jurist Sir William Jones. According to a charter received from King George IV, the Royal Asiatic Society was affiliated to associate societies in India (Calcutta, Bombay, Bangalore, Madras, and Bihar). In 1830 the Madras Literary Society became an Auxiliary of the Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain and Ireland and has generally been known as the Madras Literary Society and Auxiliary of the Royal Asiatic Society.

Libraries controlled by different bodies which were in need of space were invited to occupy some portion of the Connemara Public Library. The Madras Literary Society Library was the first to function inside the Connemara Library until it was shifted in 1905 AD to its present building on College Road. The Madras University Library occupied the space vacated by the Madras Literary Society Library and functioned there until 1928 AD when it moved to the University Buildings at Chepauk. The Oriental Manuscripts Library which was also housed in the Connemara Public Library till 1935 AD, moved into the University Buildings at Chepauk.

Library Building: 

The single - storey library building is a red-brick structure with intricate sandstone trimmings inspired by the Rajasthani style of architecture. The walls and columns were built with brick and lime mortar. The high Madras Terrace roof is still strong. The flooring looks even and smooth. It was built for library purposes with an enormous hall and high ceiling for natural light. It appears like a two storey building from outside.

Library Furniture: Rosewood tables and chairs used in the reading hall .

Funds

The Expenditure for maintaining the library is met by the Madras Literary Society.

Full Time Librarian: A full time librarian is serving the library

Opening Hours

Madras Literary Society Library serves the public daily from 10.00 am. to 05.00 pm. on weekdays. The library is closed on Sundays, three National holidays and selected festival holidays a year.

Collection

The stock of volumes stood at 83,000.  This well stocked library has valuable reference and research material: Old East India Company records, learned periodicals of the Asiatic Society, old and rare books of Tamil grammar, and even old issues of Punch magazine published in 1870. The library collection also includes fictions, philosophy, literature, history, linguistics and other subjects. The books are soiled and due to age and some books brittle.

The library has received good number of books by way of donations from individuals, institutions and Governments. Apart from this MLS library also builds collection by purchasing from the funds made available by the MLS. 

Some of the rare books in the collection include books like Arretolis Opera Omania QVAE Extant Graece and Latine, published in 1619 (the earliest book available in the library). Philosophie Naturalis Principia Mathematica (Issac Newton's Masterpiece Pricipia Mathematica in Latin) and Robert Boyles works  Vol. III (1772) are some of the rare books in the Science collection.

Access

Stack Room: No distinct stack room earmarked for the library. Books are stacked in multi-storey wrought steel book racks supported by ladder type staircase. Books are arranged in open access system. However some are classified or restricted and available for reference only.

Classification and Cataloging

Books are classified according to Dewey Decimal Classification System (version not known).

Card catalog system is not found within library premises. Searching the books could be according to the classification sequence.

Users

Any person is eligible to use MLS library service. 

Membership is open to common public. Every member can borrow maximum of six books at a time for a period of two weeks. An annual admission fee  of Rs.850+50- per member is collected every financial year. At present this Library has 200 members on roll.  The distinguished members in the past include Annie Beasant, Subhas Bose  Dr. S. Radhakrishnan,  TT Krishnamachari and CP Ramaswami Iyer.  Library delivers Books on loan to elderly at their home at a nominal charge of Rs.20 per set.

Reading Area

The reading area is located at the entrance. Around 20 seats are made available for users to sit and consult the books.

Publications

The Society published a learned periodical called the Transactions of the Literary Society of Madras from 1827 and continued from 1833 under the name of Madras Journal of Literature and Science and was published up to 1894. Till 1858 the periodical was edited by the committee of the Madras Literary Society and Auxiliary of the Royal Asiatic Society. The volumes published during 1880 was edited by Gustav Oppert, Ph. D. (Professor of Sanskrit, Presidency College, Madras; Telugu Translator to Government; Curator Government Oriental Manuscripts Library; Fellow of the Madras University).

Reference

1. 19th & 20th Century Madras Journals and the Lawrence Asylum Press. ‘Pages from History’ by Dr. A. Raman, Charles Sturt University, Orange, New South Wales, Australia. Madras Musings Vol. XIX, no.10; September 1-15, 2009
2. Forgotten library: 200-year-old Madras Literary Society. Divya Chandrababu, Time of India 14, Mar  2014
3. Kinship and language by Theodore Baskaran. Frontline. Volume 26 - Issue 14 :: Jul. 04-17, 2009
4. Madras Literary Society. Chennai Best.com. August 27, 2015
5. Scholarly Societies Project sponsored by the University of Waterloo Library: Madras Literary Society 
6. Survivors of time: Pages from the past. Asha Sridhar. The Hindu 4th October 2011.

Students Taken To Madras Literary Society Library To Encourage Reading Ability - Thanthi TV (Youtube)

Heritage Walk in and around Madras Literary Society with V Sriram by Murugesan Chander (Youtube)

Inscriptions of Madras: Francis Whyte Ellis - English Civil Servant's Tamil Inscription

The plaque of FW Ellis held at Thirumalai Nayakar Museum at Madurai

FW Ellis made the die block  showing the figure of Thiruvalluvar for minting the East India company coin from the Madras mint. The die block was published by Iravatham Mahadevan.

Francis Whyte Ellis (1777–1819) aka. 'Ellis Durai',  a British civil servant in the Madras Presidency and a scholar of Tamil and Sanskrit, was the first scholar to recognize the Dravidian languages as a separate language family. This Englishman is being considered as great Tamil scholar for his contribution in 'Tamil Prose' writing. 

Life of FW Ellis

Ellis was recruited as a writer East India Company's service at Madras in 1796. The civil servant was elevated to hiher posts in the Board of Revenue i.e, offices of assistant-under secretary in 1798,  deputy-secretary in 1801, Secretary in 1802, judge of the zillah of Machilipatnam in 1806, Collector of Land Customs in 1809 and finally the Collector of Madras in 1810. He died at the age of 41 Ramnad of cholera on 10 March 1819.

The Dravidian Proof

In 1816 his groundbreaking conceptualization of the Dravidian language family of South India known as the “Dravidian proof.” Ellis' Dravidian Proof is a step by step attempt to establish  that the languages of South India are related to one another but are not derived from Sanskrit. These concepts are valid still today, even after centuries later.

College of Fort St. George and College Press

Ellis,  a Member in Madras Literary Society was responsible for founding the College of Fort St. George in 1812 at Madras with Britishers and Indians as registered members. In 1813 he was also  instrumental in setting up of the College Press with a printing press and Tamil type faces. 

The press first published its Tamil book by Constanzo Beschi's (Veeramamunivar) Tamil grammar "Kodum Tamil" in 1813. It also brought out two Tamil books by Chitthambala Desikar -  'Tamil grammar primer Ilakkana surukkam'  and 'Tamil translation of Uttara Kandam of Ramayana.' Ellis' published works include 'Thirukkural: Translation and Commentary' and five Telugu works including Campbell's grammar. The press also continued to publish books in Kannada, Malayalam and Arabic till 1830s.

Tamil as Language for Administration

 As chairman of the committee, Ellis insisted the necessity to learn the basic structure of the South Indian languages by the civil service officers for effective functioning of duties in South Indian villages and towns. He has also taken note of the 'common features of five South Indian "dialects" - High Tamil, Low Tamil, Malayalam, Telugu and Kannada and recommended the teaching of Tamil as a representative of all five.' He also made assigned the College of Fort St. George as well as its press to prepare grammer and some other text books for the 'Language training'.

Thomas R. Trautmann, Marshall Sahlins Professor of History and Anthropology at the University of Michigan, United States and the editor of the journal Comparative Studies in Society and History, was influenced by A.L. Basham and showed interest in Indian studies. Trautmann after publishing three books - Kautilya and the Arthasastra (1971), Dravidian Kinship (1982) and  Invention of Kinship (1985), came to Chennai  on August 19, xxxx to launch another book. He also gave a talk on F.W.Ellis at  Roja Muthiah Research Library (RMRL), Taramani, Chennai and also interacted with Theodore Baskaran, a historian from Chennai.

Thomas R. Trautmann also rediscovered the stone slab with Tamil Inscription by F.W.Ellis. The colonial administration has dug twenty seven wells in 1818 as per the orders of Ellis, then Madras Collector to quench severe drinking water shortage in Madras. Periya Palayathamman temple at Royapettai, Madras being one of these twenty seven wells. Ellis' long inscription appreciated Thiruvalluvar and quoted one of his Thirukural couplet to justify the steps initiated during drought. The Poetical Tamil inscription composed in Asiriyapaa meter is shown below:

எல்லீசன் கல்வெட்டு

சயங்கொண்ட தொண்டிய சாணுறு நாடெனும்

ஆழியில் இழைத்த வழகுறு மாமணி

குணகடன் முதலாக குட கடலளவு

நெடுநிலம் தாழ நிமிர்ந்திடு சென்னப்

பட்டணத்து எல்லீசன் என்பவன் யானே

பண்டாரகாரிய பாரம் சுமக்கையில்

புலவர்கள் பெருமான் மயிலையம் பதியான்

தெய்வப் புலமைத் திருவள்ளுவனார்

திருக்குறள் தன்னில் திருவுளம் பற்றிய்

இருபுனலும் வாய்த்த மலையும் வருபுனலும்
வல்லரணும் நாட்டிற் குறுப்பு

என்பதின் பொருளை என்னுள் ஆய்ந்து

ஸ்வஸ்திஸ்ரீ சாலிவாகன சகாப்த வரு

..றாச் செல்லா நின்ற

இங்கிலிசு வரு 1818ம் ஆண்டில்

பிரபவாதி வருக்கு மேற் செல்லா நின்ற

பஹுதான்ய வரு த்தில் வார திதி

நக்ஷத்திர யோக கரணம் பார்த்து

சுப திநத்தி லிதனோ டிருபத்தேழு

துரவு கண்டு புண்ணியாஹவாசநம்

பண்ணுவித்தேன்

Elleeson Inscriptions

It is me, Elleesan (எல்லீசன்) the resident of city of Chennai Pattinam (Chennai city's colonial name), a part of Jayamkonda Thondiya (Thondai) Naadu (1), the beautiful piece of land, amidst ocean bounded by Western Ghats Hills  (குணகடன்) in the west and eastern (Bay of Bengal) ocean (குட கடலளவு) looking the like sparkling jewels; and while carrying my official duties of Mint Superviser (Employed in the Colonial Madras, Madras Presidency), I got totally absorbed by the real meaning of the classic of couplets or Thirukural composed by Thiruvalluvar (Tamil: திருவள்ளுவர்), a celebrated "Poet's Poet" (புலவர்கள் பெருமான்) aka. Divine Poet (தெய்வப் புலமை) from Mylapore (மயிலையம் பதியான்):

3. Essentials of a State (அங்கவியல்): Chapter 74 The Land (நாடு) - குறள் எண் 737.

Waters from rain and springs, a mountain near and waters thence;

Thee make a land, with fortress' sure defence - The-Sacred Kural by Rev G U Pope

 "இருபுனலும் வாய்ந்த மலையும் வருபுனலும்
வல்லரணும் நாட்டிற் குறுப்பு" - திருக்குறள்

தமிழ் விளக்கம்:

ஆறு, கடல் எனும் இருபுனலும், வளர்ந்தோங்கி நீண்டமைந்த மலைத் தொடரும், வருபுனலாம் மழையும், வலிமைமிகு அரணும், ஒரு நாட்டின் சிறந்த உறுப்புகளாகும்.

I have commissioned 27 wells on an auspicious day confirming beneficial Varam (Solar day), Tithi (Lunar day), Nakshatra (Star Constellation), Yogam (Star and Weekday combination) and Karanam (Half of the part of Tithi) according to Hindu almanac (Panchang); during the English Calendar year 1816; the equivalent Shalivahana calendar year (aka. Saka year) being  1740; and the equivalent Tamil calendar year being  Vehudhanya (வெகுதானிய), the 12th year of  60 years cycle followed in Tamil Calendar system.

1. Jayamkonda Thondiya Naadu: Thondai means very ancient long time back. Naadu means province. Tondai Naadu was an ancient (historical) region of Tamil country located in the northernmost part of Tamil Nadu. The province included traditional Pallava kingdom comprising roughly the present districts of Kancheepuram, Chennai, Tiruvallur, Vellore and Tiruvannamalai. The capital of Thondai Naadu was Kancheepuram.  It was captured by the second Chola monarch, Aditya (r. ca. 871-907). he defeated the armies of the Pallavas of Kanchipuram and claimed all of Tondai Nadu as Chola territory. Therefore the region was known as Jeyamkonda Thondai Nadu)

His tomb at Dindugul bears the following Tamil poems:

'திருவள்ளுவப் பெயர்த் தெய்வம் செப்பிய 
அருங்குறள் நூலுள் அறப்பா லினுக்குத்
தங்குபல நூலுதா ரணங்களைப் பெய்து
இங்கிலீசு தன்னில் இணங்க மொழிபெயர்த்தோன்'.

Meaning: Of the three sections of Thirukural composed by godly poet Thiruvalluvar, I, F.W.Ellis, have translated the first section Righteousness (அறத்துப்பால்) in English after confirming several reference texts.

Reference

1. Francis Whyte Ellis Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Francis_Whyte_Ellis
2. Mahadevan, Iravatham. "The Golden coin depicting Thiruvalluvar -2". Varalaaru.com (in Tamil)
3. Venkatachalapathy, A. R. "A Scholar called Ellis". Kalachuvadu Magazine (in Tamil`).

Coral Merchant Street, George Town, Chennai: 326 years Old History of Jews

Coral Merchant Street, Mannady, George Town (Source: The Hindu September 4, 2013)

Jewish Cemetery (Source: The Hindu September 4, 2013)

Sri Venugopala Krishnaswamy Temple 

Kalahasthi temple (one of five Pancha boodha sthalam equivalents in Chennai representing air)

Coral merchant street , locally known as Pavazhakara Street, is one of the  oldest and historical streets of George Town or Black Town in Chennai, India. The road stretches from north to south and links the Old Jail Road / Basin Bridge Road  in the north and Mannady Street  in the south. This commercial cum residential street is dotted with hardware shops, transport joints, guest houses, lodges, religious places and few historical structure.

Two prominent temples of Coral merchant street: Kalahasthi temple (one of five Pancha boodha sthalam equivalents in Chennai representing air) and Sri Venugopala Krishnaswamy Temple are considered as few of the old temples in Chennai with a history of few hundred years.

There are two choultries built by Nattukottai Nagarathars of Chettinadu: (1). Devakottaiyar Nagara Viduthi, 114,Coral merchant street, and (2). Rangoon Nagara Viduthi, 88,Coral Merchant Street.

History: This Colonial Street has a long history and during seventeenth and eighteenth centuries  it was a synagogue. The Pagadalpet (coral-town)  in the northern part of Muthialpet is named as coral merchant street. A small sized  Portuguese Jews belonging to Paiva or Porto families lived here as a settlement since from 1688 and they chiefly engaged in the export the diamonds of Golconda to London and imported coral beads as well as in raw form their fellow Hebrew merchants in London. From the records it is learned that they were allowed to reside within the Fort St.George and had their cemeteries in Peddanaickenpetta. Also there was an association ‘The Colony of Jewish Traders of Madraspatam' prevailed.  At the turn of 18th century the Colconda diamond trade  dwindled down and the population of the jews reduced gradually and today there is no Jewish presence at this street and could not find neither a synagogue nor the Jewish cemetery.

Nattukottai Chettiars, the community of traders, indigenous bankers and financiers occupied the Coral merchant street during the late 19th-early 20th Century and built typical row type houses with grilled  verandah  with raised platforms ('thinnai') between the front wall and the road. Soon Coral merchant street became the head quarters for the deposit banking trade of nattukottai chettiars.

Reference

1. Coral and diamonds by S Muthiah The Hindu May 16, 2011
2. George Town, Chennai - Wikipedia
3. Lustre dims, legacy stays by Anusha Parthasarathy The Hindu September 4, 2013
4.  The Madras Tercentenary Commemoration Volume. Asian Educational Services, 01-Jan-1994 - Chennai (India) - p.257.

Cenotaph of Madras Artillery Officer (1821 CE) at Kathipara Junction, Chennai

Lt Col. Sam Dalrymple of Madras Artillery: Cenotaph near Kathipara Junction

Source: The Hindu November 11, 2009

Ancestor Table

While traveling from Tambaram to Chennai, anyone can notice the whitewashed cenotaph with its prominent cupola bearing urn like finial near Kathipara road junction. There is every chance to miss this monument enclosed within the fence, since any one will be concerned only with the heavy traffic scenario. Kathipara's cloverleaf flyover and road junction  are located south of Guindy at the intersection of the Grand Southern Trunk Road (NH 45), Inner Ring Road, Mount Road and the Mount Poonamallee Road.

If you have not glanced this odd structure, just find out next time when you pass through the Kathipara junction. You may find it in between Kathipara junction and Mohite Stadium on Grand Southern Trunk (GST) Road, the national highway (NH-45). This piece of land including the cenotaph is maintained by the Indian army. Yes this cenotaph was built in 1821 in memory of Lieutenant Colonel Sam Dalrymple of Madras Artillery. Long back the Regimental center of the Madras artillery was located at the St Thomas Mount Cantonment and there was an Artillery Park wherein the present Mohite Stadium stands now.

'William Dalrymple is a British historian, Indologist and writer, art historian and curator, as well as a prominent broadcaster and critic'. Dalrymple first visited to Delhi in 26 January 1984 and started living in India on and off since 1989. Dalrymple visited to Chennai in November 2009 to promote his books. The Hindu newspaper covered his visit and published the front page story featuring William Dalrymple in the Thursday Metro Plus  supplement. The feature also published the interesting picture of W.Dalrymple at the Cenotaph of Lt.Col. Sam Dalrymple (one of his ancestors). He also recalled in an interview (Times of India) that several generations of his family had grown up in Madras. According to him the Madras Artillery officer died in May 1821 at the age of 49 years and this cenotaph was built by the fellow officers.

It is also a surprise to note that how this structure remains intact after the  cloverleaf flyover occupied much of the surrounding land. There was a move by NHAI to shift the cenotaph to the St Thomas Mount Cantonment adjacent to its present location as part of the flyover construction and this was also approved by the Ministry of Defence and even the military officials inspected to evaluate the strength of the structure and its ability to withstand the shift.

As the revised deadline of the flyover completion date forced the NHAI to drop the shifting plan and opted to give a face lift to the cenotaph. 

Reference:

1. Dalrymple's Madras Connection by Karthik Bhatt. Madras Vignettes 11th November 2009
2. In pursuit of the past By Parvathi Nayar The Hindu November 11, 2009
3. The South Indian connection by S.Muthiah  The Hindu Jan 13, 2003

LIC's United India Building: Historical Landmark at Anna Salai

United India Building (old) situated behind LIC Building at 102, Anna Salai, Chennai, Tamil Nadu 600 002, India (1)

United India Building (old) situated behind LIC Building at 102, Anna Salai, Chennai, Tamil Nadu 600 002, India (2)

United India Building (old) situated behind LIC Building at 102, Anna Salai, Chennai, Tamil Nadu 600 002, India (3)

The LIC Building, a landmark in Anna Salai, houses the Zonal and Madras Divisional Office of LIC , comprise 13 storeys above ground and the basement and sub-basement below the ground. The colonial bungalow standing behind this LIC Building still remains with its heritage and history. The high ceiling structure has tall columns at the front, wide wooden paneling and ornate with stained glasses.

The entire premises measuring about 100 grounds was owned by Garratt, the tailoring firm. In 1883 the entire part and parcel of the land was sold to Lodge of Perfect Unanimity for Rs. 18,000. The Later in 1888, the Lodge sold a portion of the land measuring around 45 grounds and on this land Madras Publishing House was built. Lodge constructed the first floor to hold regular meetings in 1890. In 1905, the remaining 55 grounds were also sold to the District Grand Lodge (Apex body of Freemasonry) for Rs. 80,000. The Freemasons was shifted to its present premises in Egmore in 1916. At the same time the entire premises was sold to Kushaldoss Chaturbhujadoss, a Gujarati business personality for Rs.97,000. The old bungalow was rented to two tenants.  The first tenant was C Radhakrishna Chetty, who founded the Pioneer Laundry  in 1918. The second tenant was Murray & Co, premier auctioneers (established by two brothers Vedantam and Rajam in 1927) who occupied the premises in 1929. Later Kushaldoss Chaturbhujadoss sold it to United Insurance. The auctioneers has now shifted to 4, Norton Road, in Mandaveli. Now Pioneer Laundry remains there and the LIC has rented it out to the laundry people.

Covelong Beach: Secluded Coromandel Coast Beach Near Chennai, Tamil Nadu

Taj Fisherman's Cove (View 1)

Taj Fisherman's Cove (View 2)

Sectional view (1) Public Beach at Covelong

Sectional view (2) Public Beach at Covelong

Covelong Dargah of Syedna Hazrat Tamim bin Ahmed Ansari Razi Allathu Thala Anthu, a Sufi Saint

Covelong (Kovalam) Beach Is the very clear and clean beach with the breathtakingly beautiful and tranquil ambiance and a popular destination among beach lovers. It is located 40 kilometres south of Chennai on the East Coast Road (scenic coast of Coromandel) en route to Mahabalipuram.  This less crowded and secluded beach, with radiating sun, deep blue sea and calm waters,  lovely white glistening sand, swaying palms and scenic views,  is the perfect hot spot  to relax and unwind.  Pack a picnic  and head off to Covelong and you will experience as if visiting a faraway fairytale land with a plethora of water sport activities like wind Surfing, water surfing and swimming. The enchanting beach also lies in proximity to Mahabalipuram and Crocodile Farm. There is a canal running parallel to the Bay of Bengal divides the beach from main-land.

Covelong, a  picturesque fishing village in the Coromandel coast , was developed in 1746 as the port by the Nawab of Carnatic, Saadat Ali for political and strategic purpose and soon it became the primary port. The French East India Company captured this port in 1746 and the French navy under the French General Laboudonnais  anchored till 1746. Lord Clive defeated the French in Carnatic war and the fort captured and promptly destroyed by British East India Company to prevent further French attacks in future.

A fort was built in Covelong by Dutch East India Company and the fort site has been converted into  Taj Fisherman's Cove, often regarded one among the top private luxury beach resort. The ancient Catholic Church is a must visit place on the beach. Also there is a dargah of Syedna Hazrat Tamim bin Ahmed Ansari Razi Allathu Thala Anthu, a Sufi Muslim saint.

Once you enter here,  you will learn the history and  vast array of geographic features; placidity and your body and mind positively charged with enthusiasm and energy and you may not willing to leave.

Location :

Located on the ECR Chennai Mahabalipuram State Highway.

Best Season:

Best time to visit Covelong beach is the months of November to February.

How to Get There - By Road:

The Covelong Beach is easily reachable by excellent road network that connects the town with the nearby cities. Buses and taxies are the most popular way of reaching Covelong beach from Chennai and other nearby cities.

Fourbeck Bridge at Anna Salai Nandanam: Bridges of Colonial Madras

'Mambalam Odaipalam' ("Bridge over the Brook at Mamelon”. )

Enamel Sign Board of the Arcaeological Survey of India (1)

Enamel Sign Board of the Arcaeological Survey of India (2)

Four-sided commemorative pedestal memorialize the history behind the Fourbeck bridge (English)

Four-sided commemorative pedestal memorialize the history behind the Fourbeck bridge (English / Persian)

Four-sided commemorative pedestal memorialize the history behind the Fourbeck bridge (Larin)

Four-sided commemorative pedestal memorialize the history behind the Fourbeck bridge (Tamil)

Madras City Map 1893 Showing the Tank

I am sure many of you might have crossed Jones Road - Anna Salai (erstwhile Mount Road) intersection lying between  Nandanam and Saidapet. But how many of you have ever noticed the  four-sided commemorative pedestal and enamel sign board.

Well the pedestal, in a fenced enclosure measuring about 26 sq.metre, is  located at the State Highways Department’s workshop premises in West CIT Nagar i.e,  just opposite the Nandanam Veterinary polyclinic and adjacent to MC Raja Hostel for men. This monument comes under the care of the Tamil Nadu Department of Archaeology since 2003.

The four-sided commemorative pedestal memorialize the history behind the Fourbeck bridge in English, Latin, Persian and Tamil, on its four sides. Strange! Find out more about the history of Fourbeck Bridge.

In English, it reads: “This bridge, erected as a public benefit from a legacy bestowed by Mr Adrian Fourbeck, a merchant of Madras, is a monument useful as lasting of the good citizen’s munificent liberality. It was erected by his executors T Pelling, De Freies, P Bodkin from the plan and under the direction of Lieutenant Colonel Pat Ross, Chief Engineer, in the year of our Lord 1786. Major General Sir Arch D Campbell, the Governor of Fort St George.”

'Long Tank' was a huge curved water body lying parallel to the western edge of the Mount Road commencing from Nungambakkam High Road and extending up to Saidapet. Now no traces of this lake could be found. The surplus water from this lake was channelized through the brook (canal) via Mount Road. 'Mambalam Odaipalam' was the small temporary bridge standing on this canal. In 1772 there was  an offer from Andrew Ross, the free merchant to raise the permanent "Bridge over the Brook at Mamelon”.

In 1786, the 'Brook Bridge,' a permanent structure, was constructed by Thomas Pelling, De Fries and P Bodkin. These three Europeans executed the will of Adrian Fourbeck, an affluent business man from Madras. Lt.Col. Patrick Ross, the chief engineer of Madras gave direction to the construction.
Who was Adrian Fourbeck? Adrian Fourbeck was serving as a member of the  Gunroom Crew in Fort St George and in 1740 this kind hearted European was discharged on a disability pension of Pagodas 1-14-0. Later he became an affluent merchant through partnership with Samuel Troutback. Fourbeck expired in 1783 and left a will comprising 'terms' for the construction of the bridge. The bridge was named after Fourbeck bridge to commemorate philanthropic contribution of Adrian Fourbeck.

Reference

1. The Fourbeck Bridge by S.Muthiah The Hindu Chennai Jan 07, 2008
2. The sole reminder of long-lost bridge from yore by  V Gangadharan The New Indian Express   May 19, 2011 

Evolution of Fort St.George 1939 (As Documented by Col.DM Reid) and Present Structure

Fort St.George Map 1939 Col.DM Reid

Post & Telegraphs: Special Cover 368th Madras Day Celebrations 22-08-2007

Wallajah Gate (Island Grounds) Fort St. George

Gate Used by Military Units at Fort St.George

North Gate Fort St. George

Bastions and Revelins of Fort St.George

At the Fort Museum, one can see maps and illustrations which documents the evolution of the fort and settlement over the centuries. Col. D.M.Reid (Douglas Muir Reid) prepared drawings of the fort with Madras volunteers. These drawings describe the evolution of this fort. He has also written a book title: 'The Story of Fort St. George.'

1687 -- Governor Elihu Yale erected the 45-m (148-ft) tall flagstaff to hoist the Union Jack for first time in India.  

1715 -- The Parade ground behind the Secretariat building was known as  Cornwallis Square.

1726 -- Marmalong Bridge, the first across the Adyar River. Built by the Armenian Coderjee Petrus Uscan.

1755 -- The Wallajah Bridge was constructed connecting the Wallajah Gate of the Fort to the Island. 

1825 -- Binny Bridge, named after John Binny, whose residence became the Imperial Hotel - now the Vivanta by Taj Connemara, also known as Commander-in-Chief’s Bridge, was constructed in Binny Road.

1829 -- Anderson Bridge, named after Dr. James Anderson, who had a botanic garden in the area once, was constructed across coovum and lies adjacent to Pantheon road signal. 

1840 -- Elphinstone Bridge constructed on River Adyar

1869 -- Napier Bridge,  which connects the entire stretch of the Marina with the Fort, was  constructed by Francis Napier, then Governor.  The Napier Bridge we know today, with its six bowstrings and ethereal lighting at night, was built in 1999.  

1910 -- A second floor over the wings and the magnificent Assembly Hall to the east with numerous black columns were added enhancing its facade.

1930 -- The low width North and South Sea Gates, which remain closed for a longer time, were estimated as too small and hence they were replaced with much wider structures.

1942 -- The small Centre Gate was not used for a longer duration and it was sealed with bricks. The closure also to protect the fort from threats posed by the Japanese.

When completed, Fort St. George was spread over 42 acres inside and over 60 acres outside the Fort Walls. The Fort had 3 principal gates, the “Sea Gate”, which has now been closed, the“Wallaja Gate” and “St. George Gate” apart from a few minor gates. The Gates were further strengthened by bastions, ravelins flanked by lunettes. A wet ditch was built all around the Fort as an added security measure.

Tamil Nadu State Government's Neo Classical Secretariat is visible to those who enter through Sea Gate

Fort St.George Borders:

• Western side border: the Wall Tax Road and the Buckingham Canal
• South side border: the North Fort Road on the eastern side and the General Hospital Road on the western side
• Northern side border:  Basin Bridge Road and Old Jail Road
• Eastern side border: the Rajaji Salai (First line beach road) and the Chennai Port
• All the four sides are additionally bordered by railway lines of the Chennai Beach—Chengalpattu and Chennai Central—Chennai Beach sections.

The streets (some of streets and monuments are seen even till date) were named in the 17th Century when the Fort was a residential settlement, `White Town'. All the main streets were parallel to the coast and developed around the core, `The Castle' (The Fort).

Streets  within Fort St.George:

Sl.No.	Name of the Street	Thumbnail of the Street
1	Church Street Location: Right side of the Fort House
2	North East Parade Street Location: Parade Grounds
3	Kings Barracks Location: CSD Canteen
4	Glouceter Street  Location: Fort Square
5	York Street Location: Fort Square
6	Middle Street        Location: Fort Square
7	Charles and James Street   Location: Clive House
8	St. Thomas Street Location: Near Church Street
9	Oultry Street Location: Near Parade Ground
10	Choultry Street Location: Parade Ground
11	Inner street Location: South West
12	Wallajah West Street  Location: South West
13	Saint George Curtain StreetLocation: St. Thomas Street
14	Inner George Gate Street Location: West
15	Inner North Gate Road   Location: York Street

Monuments within Fort St.George, Esplanade and George (Black) Town:

Sl.No.	Name of the Monument	Thumbnail of the Monument
1	“Tamil Nadu State Government Secretariat (British East India Company Fort House)” . Location: Central Building
2	“Elihu Yale’s home” . Location: St.Thomas Street
3	St. Mary’s Church with tablets laid on the ground and enclosed by a compound and a buried wall  Location: Church Street
4	Clive’s house built in 1753  Location: Charles and James Street
5	“Arsenal” between Wellesley house and Clive’s House with shells and cannons piled together near the Gateway Block IV/1-12 and 14-18. (Wikimedia Commons) It was designed by Colonel Patrick Ross and is presently being used by the military as their supply depot.  Location: Charles and James Street
6	Wellesley house (Built in 1798), Block No. IV/13         Location: Charles and James Street
7	Big Warehouse, south of the Church Library (in Block No. II/7). It is situated right opposite the Last House on Snob’s Alley and is in a complete state of disrepair with half of the roof structure having caved in. (Wikimedia Commons) Location: St. Thomas Street
8	Chaplain’s house including portion which is the northern side of the old Wall II/1. (Wikimedia Commons) Location: St. Thomas Street
9	Garrison Engineer’s Depot, Block No. IV It is located opposite the Fort police station which is now in military use.  Location: Charles and James Street
10	Guard room Block No. V	Fort St. George, Chennai-9
11	King’s Barracks Block No. XXV  Location: Kings Barracks now Area CSD (Defence) canteen
12	Last house on the left of ‘Snobs Allay’ (Oldest house in the Fort with carved staircase) – Block No. I/1 It is now completely ruined with little trace left of its presence and is presently being restored by the ASI. (Courtesy: The sorry state of Fort St George Madras Heritage and Carnatic Music March 5, 2014 ) Location: St. Thomas Street
13	Nursing Sister’s House (Block No. I/3) Located in a building to the north of the Last house and is in good condition. It is currently being used as residence by some of the church staff and nuns from St. Mary’s Church. Location: St. Thomas Street
14	Old British Infantry Officer’s Mess (now housing the Fort Museum) Block XXXVI/2   Location: York Street
15	Ramparts, gates, bastions, Ravelins with vaulted chambers and water cisterns underneath; moat and defence walls all round with glacis to the extent of the existing barbed wire fence
16	Tomb of David Yale and Joseph Hymners in the compound of Law College, George Town The proposed alignment and Chennai Metro Rail Station comes within 300 meters of the Tomb of David Yale and Joseph Hymners located inside Dr. Ambedkar Law College campus.
17	Old town Wall	Tondiarpet, Chennai

Reference

1.  Bridges of Madras - The concrete connect. Anusha Parthasarathy The Hindu Chennai April 16, 2013
2. Exploring the Fort St. George: A neglected heritage complex by Anand Lakshmipathi Transparent Chennai April 1, 2013 
3. List of Centrally Protected Monuments - State-wise, Tamil Nadu, Archaeological Survey of India Chennai Circle
4. The sorry state of Fort St George Madras Heritage and Carnatic Music March 5, 2014